Up early again. Gorgeous day. Gorgeous location. Breakfast and then down the hill to the pebble beach where we wandered about collecting shells, rocks etc. In car and into Hagi an ancient town which has arguably the most influential history in all Japan. Stopped first at the temple and buildings around Yoshida Shoin's birthplace. Beautiful old buildings and atmosphere ruined by masses of tour buses disgorging tourists who worshipped first at the shrine and then in the gift shops. Walked into town. Bad move. It was hot, further than we thought and Lonely Planet (if you are reading this) your map of Hagi is worth less than the paper it's printed on. Finally found what we were looking for - a preserved old area of (more samurai) houses and pottery shops. Well worth it but wished we had found it quicker. Had to dash back for a quick lunch at Mosburger before heading south to cross Akiyoshidai a supposed limestone stunning karst plateau dotted with caves. The plateau was wasted on us Brits who have seen much better in England. Stopped at "the-place-you-are-supposed-to-stop-at" to watch bemused as droves of Japanese poured off tour buses to have their photo taken in front of a few rocks. Best thing there was a cat. Decided against going in a cave due to the price - hardly needs much maintenance does it for goodness sake! Hit the highway and arrived in Kumamoto a couple of hours later to stay with our friends Chuck and Julie. Our first night in Kyushu... and not under canvas! Aaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh........zzzzzzzzz.